Electronic ignition hook up

The biggest selling point for breakerless electronic ignitions is low maintenance, you just set it and forget it My dad had the ignition module on his '86 Mustang blow out twice in the four years he owned it. Points will wear down slowly retarding the timing, you will feel a loss in power well before it dies. Electronic ignitions don't give any warning. One minute you're driving, the next minute you're a pedestrian. Points can only handle about 4 amps.

An electronic ignition must be able to handle at least 4 amps in a stock application and more on built motors with a racing coil. Most aftermarket and OE electronic ignition systems use small transistors to save money and increase profits.

If you want a reliable electronic ignition then stay away from the little magic boxes that fit inside the distributor. There is a dirt cheap and reliable electronic ignition module that you can run on any motor and buy anywhere. In Chrysler made their electronic ignition standard equipment.

Electronic ignition, Pertronix

Mopar guys have know the benefits of this system since it came out. If your car is Mopar powered you can still buy a conversi on kit. Most people don't know the Mopar ignition box can be hooked to any distributor, including points. You're probably thinking that running an electronic ignition off of points defeats the whole purpose. If you're putting on an electronic ignition because you want one less thing to maintain then you should spend more money and buy a magnetic pickup distributor.

If you want the power of an electronic ignition but don't want to buy a new distributor then hook it to the points. The points simply act as a trigger, the ignition module determines the dwell and handles all the current which are the two biggest limitations of points. Since the transistor in the box handles all the current you will never burn the points, no matter how many amps the coil is pulling. There is one advantage points have over a magnetic pickup. If the ignition module craps out in the middle of nowhere you can just bypass it and keep going.

I was curious how well a Mopar box would work on my Ford with points so I tried it out. The first step was buying a box. I called every parts store and junk yard in town to find the best price. Every parts store I called had Mopar style ignition boxes. You can also buy high performance boxes made by Mopar. They recommend the orange box for up to 6, rpm, the chrome box for over 6, rpm, and the gold box for all out racing.

As you can see in the picture it uses a huge transistor and heat sink. I looked up the specs on the transistor, it can handle a continuous 15 amps and a peak 30 amps. That's way more than any set of points can handle. I just wired it up with what I had laying around. Small female bullet connectors fit the pins on the box perfectly. First you should mount the box.

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It needs a good ground connection to work properly so scrape any paint under it and make sure the screws are tight. The cooler it is the longer it will last so keep it away from headers and other heat sources. Normally the box is wired up using a magnetic pickup, see pic. Putting an ignition system together from aftermarket components usually means buying the control and distributor separately.

You can also upgrade the fuel delivery system at the same time with the right control module. However, kits that deliver the best performance require the replacement of the distributor which takes just a few steps. The hardest part of converting to electronic ignition using a factory kit is finding a location for the control module. My Mopar kit was four wires, power for the module and power and ground from the reluctor and pickup in the distributor. However, there was also a ballast resistor that I had to install before the ignition coil.

The easiest way to mount the controller is to use self-tapping screws and a drill with a screwdriver tip.

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  • Converting from Points to Electronic Ignition.

Mounting the ballast resistor is usually just a matter of removing the old stock resistor and putting the new one in its place. You may need to drill a pilot hole for it. With the factory kit, installing the module consists of plugging the molded connector into the corresponding connector coming from the distributor and applying power and ground. With a factory kit this just means splicing the corresponding wires together.

Installing an aftermarket kit may mean using a meter or test light to find the wires coming from the ignition key brown and yellow on all 60s models Chrysler products. When deciding on a location for the box, you need to keep in mind what kind it is. You may have to look for different color wires. Remember, you need to make sure that you mount the controller solidly to minimize vibrations.

Many of them actually come with rubber isolators to protect them from vibration.


Electronic ignition installation

The wiring harnesses that come with electronic ignition control modules are usually pretty long and will reach where they need to go. Sometimes, though, you need just a little more length to get the wire where it needs to go. Also remember to bump up the size of the wire you use by one. For example, if you have to add a few feet to the heavy black and red power leads, be sure to use at least 12 gauge wire.

electronic ignition hook up Electronic ignition hook up
electronic ignition hook up Electronic ignition hook up
electronic ignition hook up Electronic ignition hook up
electronic ignition hook up Electronic ignition hook up
electronic ignition hook up Electronic ignition hook up
electronic ignition hook up Electronic ignition hook up

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